The Grass is Greener by Gail Wilson

..Or at least I certainly hope so!  I decided in 2010 that it was time to do some thing with my lawn.  I had only owned the property for 10 years but the lawn was 40 years old.  My decision was to over seed with Reveille, a Hybrid Blue Grass that claims to be more drought resistant.  Saving water is really important to me so I did some research and everything I read indicated that it was worth a try.

In the spring of 2010 I aerated (2 inch centers) my existing lawn, applied seed, (1 lb per 1000 square feet) and covered the seed with approximately 1/8 inch of compost.  I watered three times a day until the seeds germinated and continued watering an average of three times a week during the summer.  In the beginning of August I repeated the procedure, Reveille is started in early August no later.  I had a beautiful lawn that year.  Well of course I did with all that care and water.

  Enter spring 2011 and things were not so great.  I had aerated, applied compost and a small amount of fertilizer but the lawn was greening in a mottled fashion.  Parts looked great others parts not so good.  At first I attributed the problem to poor fertilizer application so I reapplied more fertilizer but to no avail.  As the season progressed it became evident that the greener grass was the new Reveille because new, beautifully green grass was growing in areas that previously had been with out.

What to do?  So I decided to reduce the water in an attempt to stress the KBG and give the HBG a chance to take over.  I reduced the water to one solid watering per week, nature helped a little this summer with additional precipitation and the HBG began infiltrating the KBG.  The lawn still is not beautiful but getting better.

Even though I chose not to reseed at all this year, I think I will over seed those areas that need help in the spring of 2012 (depending on weather, med to late April is suggested).

I am really optimistic about this grass and trying to be patient, which is not one of my strongest personality traits.  I will return in the future and let you know how everything turns out.   I do hope the grass is greener in my yard.

Here's a CSU fact sheet on rejuvenating the lawn: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07241.html

Violets and Ground Ivy in the Lawn by Elaine Lockey

Common blue violet

 Is it a flower or a weed?  Well that answer is truly in the eye of the beholder. The common blue violet, Viola species, seems to be such an innocent little plant when first appearing in your lawn but can become a very difficult plant to control if allowed to spread.  It can make a stunning ground cover with its pretty blooms in early spring and heart-shaped green leaves. It is generally found in woodlands and enjoys shady to partly sunny moist areas. However, it can also adapt to dry areas once established.

Ground ivy, also known as creeping Charlie, Glechoma hederacea, offers lush dark green leaves that are rounded with toothed edges and small funnel-shaped purplish-blue flowers in the spring.  This perennial belongs to the mint family and has square stems and a pungent odor when the leaves are crushed.  Ground ivy and wild violets can sometimes be confused when flowers are not present.

Both plants spread via seed from blossoms, branching rhizomes, and creeping roots.  With so many options to expand their range, it’s easy to see how they do so very easily.  These plants will simply spread out of your landscape beds and into your lawn.  Removal of them is a little more complicated.  Hand-pulling often just results in a lot of time and effort and broken off plants as they have extensive root systems.  Herbicides are usually recommended.

Ground Ivy in turf

If violets or ground ivy are in your lawn, you’ll need to use a broad-leaved herbicide only.  This type of herbicide will not harm your established lawn but can harm neighboring desired plants if the spray drifts.  Caution is highly recommended by using herbicides on very calm days and following all label directions.
 

A herbicide containing triclopyr, 2,4-D, MCPP, dicamba, or sulfentrazone is recommended for success in control, with triclopyr showing the best results. The best time to apply this spray on perennial weeds, such as violets and ground ivy, is September to early October.  Plants are storing energy reserves in their roots and stems for winter and the herbicide will be able to reach all parts of the plant via the food reserves.  You might not see immediate results but should see some impact in the spring.  Multiple treatments may be necessary. If you only have a few violets in your lawn spot-treat those areas, instead of applying herbicides to your whole lawn.
 

A healthy lawn is also the best defense against these and other weeds.  Proper mowing, fertilizing, watering, and aeration practices will provide you with the greatest success in conquering weeds.  The best defense I’ve discovered though is a healthy acceptance of a not so perfect lawn.  Consider lawn violets or ground ivy as a pretty addition and if you don’t spray them with herbicides you can incorporate them into your next salad. I am amazed at the number of things you can do with these plants from foods to vinegars to cosmetics.  There’s always a bright side right?

common violet photo by sierrapotomac.org

Spring Lawn Care by Carol King

Tony Koski, Ph.D. Extension Turf Specialist and Professor – Colorado State University, gives us this advice on lawn care:

•   Proper watering can promote a deeply rooted, healthier turf.

• Let grass species and health, soil conditions, and weather conditions dictate irrigation practices, not the number of days between waterings.
• Mow bluegrass, ryegrass, fescue and wheatgrass to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Buffalo-grass and blue grama lawns can be mowed to this height, but also do well unmowed.
• Core cultivation is essential for all lawn areas, especially those that are thatchy or subject to high traffic. 

Here's the whole fact sheet!

Fall and Winter Watering by Donna Duffy

We are on track for one of the warmer autumns on record. In addition, we know that Colorado winters can have long spells of dry, warm and windy weather. During the cold weather seasons, pay special attention to weather and soil conditions and provide supplemental water to keep the root systems of trees, shrubs, lawns and perennials alive and healthy. Here are some tips to help them survive the winter.

General Tips

Apply water in mid-day when the air and soil temperatures are above 40°F and there is no snow cover. If the root systems don’t receive adequate water, the plants could appear normal in the spring, but may be weakened and die off in the summer when temperatures rise. Lack of winter water may also create insect and disease problems. Whenever you water, remember to disconnect the hose when you are finished!

Trees

Newly planted trees are most susceptible to winter drought injury. All trees utilize water most effectively when it is allowed to soak into the soil to a depth of 12”. Whether you use a sprinkler, deep root watering device or soaker hose, be sure to apply water to many different locations below the tree and beyond the canopy of branches. Trees need 10 gallons of water for every inch of trunk diameter (measured at knee height). If you use a deep root needle, insert it only 6-8” below the ground – if it’s deeper than that, it’s out of reach of the tree roots.

Shrubs

Even established shrubs will benefit from winter watering in dry years. Apply five gallons of water for small shrubs (less than 3’) and 18 gallons for larger shrubs. If the shrubs are newly planted, water twice monthly. Mulching the shrubs will help them retain moisture.

Roses and Other Perennials

If you planted perennials in the fall, they probably didn’t have much time to establish a strong root system and they will need winter water. Water when the ground appears dry by checking the soil condition 2-3” deep.  All perennials that are in a windy or southwest location will benefit from supplemental water. Keep an eye on the mulch around your perennials, it’s often blown around in the winter and will need to be put back in place or supplemented.

Lawns

Lawns can suffer winter damage as well as trees, shrubs and perennials, especially newly established lawns. These new lawns will need supplemental winter irrigation following the general tips above. During dry winters, lawns are more susceptible to winter grass mites and dessication if occasional winter irrigation is not applied.

For More Information…download the CSU Extension Fact Sheet #7.211 “Fall and Winter Watering."

What to do with all those leaves? by Donna Duffy

We have had weeks to enjoy the beautiful fall foliage, and now we have to figure out what to do with all those leaves carpeting the lawn and yard. It’s best not to leave a thick layer of leaves on the grass for several reasons. A thick layer can block sunlight, reducing turf growth because of the shading effect. That thick layer will also hold moisture, increasing the potential for turf disease. Here area some options for managing all those leaves and keeping them out of the landfills.

 Composting

Leaves are high in carbon, making them a great compost, but they are comparatively low in nitrogen and that’s what decomposing bacteria feed on. You can add nitrogen in the form of fertilizer or fresh green organic matter. Add ¼ to ½ cup of standard lawn fertilizer (without weed killer) per bushel. Or add one part dry leaves with two parts fresh grass clippings or other green garden debris. As you add leaves to the compost pile, moisten them until they are the consistency of a wet sponge. Whole leaves are better for compost than leaves that are shredded or mulched. For more information, check out the CSU Extension Fact Sheet “Composting Yard Waste” at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07212.html.

Mulching

Mulching the leaves directly into the turf is simple and a time-saving way to manage leaves. Mulching mowers work best, but almost any rotary mower will suffice. Use safety goggles and an air mask over your mouth and nose to protect yourself from debris and dust (dry leaves mulch better than wet leaves). Set the mower blade at your normal mowing height. If you have lots of leaves, it may require more than one pass. The finer the leaf particles, the more easily they fall into the turf, leaving the grass exposed to sunlight. This is important because fall is an important time for the turf to photosynthesize and store carbohydrates.

Recycling

In Jefferson County, bagged or loose leaves can be taken to the Rooney Road Recycling Center at 151 South Rooney Road. There is a charge for dropping off leaves and other yard waste, but it keeps them out of the landfills. If you take bagged leaves, you’ll need to take them out of the bags at the recycling site. Rooney Road Recycling Center is open 7 days a week except holidays. For more information, call 303-612-6262.

Some municipalities in Jefferson County have their own leaf collection programs. In Golden, yard waste collection will happen the first three Saturdays in November. Call 303-278-8600 for details.  Littleton and Englewood are continuing their annual leaf recycling program at Mountain States Wood Recyclers, 2300 West Radcliffe Avenue in Sheridan. For more information, call the Public Service Department at 303-795-3863.

 Call your local municipality to check on leaf recycling programs this fall. So, don't "leaf" them alone, compost, mulch or recycle!

Preparing Your Sprinkler System for Winter

We had our first light frost in the metro area.  That means it's time.  Time to prepare your sprinkler system for winter:

Quick Facts....

• Prepare your sprinkler system for winter by expelling all the water from the irrigation system and equipment.
• Do not trust manual or automatic drain valves. The system should be blown
  out with pressurized air.
• To determine the best sized compressor for your system, know the gallons
  per minute (GPM) that flow through each zone.
• If your irrigation system is attached to domestic water, it is required to
  have a backflow prevention device.

Read the rest here!

Fall Lawn Care by M J Lechner

It's only a matter of time before Jack Frost will be nipping at our noses and the woes of mowing and weeding will be distant memories....but wait! Before you hang up your garden hose, let's get down to 'grass tacks' and get your lawn prepped for fall.

**The first step in fall lawn care is to aerate. Aeration breaks up our Colorado clay soils and allows for moisture, fertilizer and grass seeds to settle in. Renting an aerator from a local nursery is one idea, but there are lots of companies willing to do this tiresome chore for you.
**Fall is the best time of year to fertilize Colorado's lawns. Promotions about "lawn winterization" may sound daunting, but there's nothing scary about it. Simply fertilize with nitrogen sometime during late September to early November along the Front Range, and earlier in the mountains.

Apply at least one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Remember that turf must be green when nitrogen is applied. Also, make sure that the soil is moist so the nitrogen will dissolve easily. If not, irrigate and wait a day before fertilizing. Fertilizer applied to very dry, cold soil or to dormant turf won't be used efficiently. While nitrogen is the most important nutrient, there is no harm if fertilizers also contain some phosphorous or potassium.
The benefits of fall fertilizing include a healthier turf before winter, a healthier root system, and stimulating a turf that greens up earlier in the spring without excessive top growth. Fall fertilization produces dense, green spring lawns without the mowing chores that come with spring fertilization. It should be a part of every good lawn care program.


**Large-leaf weeds and any weeds that are in flower are eyesores. They should be pulled or destroyed before they go to seed, or they will become an increasing nuisance. Occasional weeds here and there can be pulled by hand or with a weed puller. Heavy infestations probably are removed most easily with the help of an all-purpose lawn weed killer.

**Fall grass seed planting is an excellent way to fill in the bare spots in your lawn. Typically, fall weather has an ideal about of rain fall and temperatures for grass seed germination. You have two options for fall grass seed planting. You can plant the seeds in September and the grass will germinate and establish this year, or you can plant the seeds after this, and they will stay dormant for the winter and germinate in early spring, when the conditions are ideal as well. The bonus of a late fall grass seed planting is that many of the local birds will have left by then, making the seed less vulnerable to them. Over-seeding after aeration provides the perfect nursery pockets for the new grass seeds. Then the winter rain or snow will quickly cover it up until spring.

**Don't mow turf shorter in late fall. Leaving turf a bit longer helps to keep it healthy over the long cold winter months. Finally, adjust sprinklers for fall watering; with the cooler days, the lawn needs less water, so to quote the Denver Water Board, "use only what you need!" Your lawn will thank you next spring by greening up early and staying healthy all season long.

For additional information about lawn care, call the Jefferson County CSU Extension at 303-271-6620.

Hot Weather Garden Problems by Carol King and Donna Duffy

The Dog Days of summer are here. The Greeks and Romans believed the dog star Sirius, a prominent star in the August heavens,  was the cause of the hot, sultry weather. They considered this to be an evil time "when the seas boiled, wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all creatures became languid, causing to man burning fevers, hysterics, and phrensies" according to Brady’s Clavis Calendarium, 1813.

It’s also the time in the garden when hot weather causes all sorts of calamities as well and gives gardeners fevers, hysterics and phrensies!  Be on the lookout for these problems.

The lawn is getting brown! The lush green grass from spring is starting to dry up with the hot days. If your lawn is Kentucky bluegrass (very common in landscaping) this slowdown is a natural part of the life cycle. Tip #1: mow to a height of 2.5 to 3”, and return the mulched clippings back to the lawn. Tip #2: fertilization is typically not necessary from July to early August. Wait to fertilize until late fall while the grass is still green. Tip #3: when a lawn looks thirsty, a common mistake is to increase the watering time. When using a standard sprinkler system with pop-up heads, eight to ten minutes is about the optimal time any one turf zone should run so run-off doesn’t occur. The full cycle may need to be repeated two or more times depending upon rain, humidity, wind and heat in the environment.

Yikes! Spider mites! Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens in Colorado. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance. You might also see webbing. Tip: few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Instead, try a periodic hosing of plants with a forceful jet of water to physically remove and kill mites, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators.

Leaf scorch. During the hot days of summer, many trees, shrubs, flowers and vegetables develop dry, brown leaf margins. Once leaf scorch has occurred, there is no cure. The dehydrated portions of the leaf will not turn green again, but with proper water management, the plant may recover. Tip #1: during the growing season, water deeply and infrequently. Resist the urge to water more frequently. Tip #2: in the winter, give the plant a deep watering once a month when there is no snow cover. Tip 3: avoid overfertilizing. Fertilizer spikes, that deliver concentrated salts at specific sites, can burn roots and contribute to leaf scorch.

Pollination issues.  Many summer vegetables must be pollinated by insects such as bees to set fruit, During hot weather, pollen doesn’t remain viable very long. As a result there may be a drop in vegetable production for several days during and after hot spells even if bees are present. There may be more misshapen fruit as a result of poor pollination.

Blossom drop. Temperatures in the nineties cause many vegetables to drop their blossoms before fruit forms. Squash, zucchini, tomatoes, and beans are especially prone to this. Over fertilizing and under watering also contribute to blossom drop. Tip #1: To minimize blossom drop during a heat wave, keep your garden well watered by applying around 1” of water per week if it does not rain. Tip #2: avoid high nitrogen fertilizers.  Tip #3: Mulch the vegetables to conserve moisture and keep soils cool.

Blossom end rot. Another problem that is common in hot weather is blossom end rot (BER). This disorder occurs when there is not enough calcium available to developing fruit, resulting in the lower end of the fruit turning tan or black and failing to develop. BER is most common in tomatoes, but also occurs in eggplant, peppers, watermelons, and squash. The most common causes are uneven watering, over fertilization, extreme temperatures, and low soil pH (acid soil). Tip #1:  keep vegetables evenly moist. Do not allow them to dry out during dry spells. Tip #2: do not over fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizers.

If you have other “phrensies” in the garden, call the Jeffco CSU Extension Office at 303-271-6620.  We’ll get through this together!

Brown Spots in the Lawn by Mary Small

Does your lawn have a case of “those horrid brown spots”? You’re not alone.  Mine’s got them, too. When spring rains and cool temperatures are followed by hot dry weather, brown patches and spots just seem to appear out of nowhere.  One of the most common causes is an improperly adjusted sprinkler system.

Check to see how yours is functioning.  Manually turn on each zone and observe where the water is and isn’t going.  When my husband and I did this, we discovered that one sprinkler head was knocked out of alignment.  Instead of heading for the lawn, the water was making a direct hit on a nearby shrub.  Some water made it past the shrub, but quickly dropped to the ground.

In another location, the sprinkler head popped up part way and was only irrigating a small area.  In a third spot, we discovered a partially plugged head. No wonder we had brown spots!

If you run the sprinkler system and don’t see any obvious problems (other than those darned brown spots), try the “tuna can test”.  Place several straight-sided containers (like empty tuna cans) in the zone you want to check.  Run the system for 15 minutes, then measure the depth of water in all the containers and average them. Which cans hold less than average? Which hold more?  This shows you where there might be adjustment issues.

Site features can create irrigation problems.  Sprinkler water that hits a tree trunk or similar “obstruction” will cause a dry spot on the opposite side.  Hot, dry and windy exposures may need twice the water of shaded lawns.  Sloped areas often brown because applied water runs down slope before it can sink in. Try the “cycle and soak” treatment on slopes by splitting their irrigation times into two or three parts.
   

Different types of heads apply different amounts of water. Mix head types in the same zone and you can easily apply too much and too little water at the same time! Low daytime water pressure often creates brown areas.  Apply water at night or in the wee hours of the morning to take advantage of higher water pressure and better irrigation coverage. 

For more information, see the following CSU Extension fact sheets: 
Operating and Maintaining a Home Irrigation System

Irrigation:  Inspecting and Correcting Turf Irrigation System Problems

Not So Fast! Gardening Tips for Early Spring by Donna Duffy

Yes, it does feel a bit like Spring outside. And yes, there are signs of life in your yard and garden. As tempting as it is, don’t go full-force into your gardening mode quite yet. Following are some gardening chores you can start right now, and others that you’ll need to wait to begin.

Wait! It’s too early to do these chores.

Pruning roses – it’s just too early to do this now, even if the canes have signs of green. Pruning encourages new growth, and we aren’t out of danger of heavy snow and freezing temperatures. Wait until late April or early May, when the chance of freeze damage lessens. If you have tall canes that have broken unevenly, you can cut them just below the break to prevent them from flailing around in the wind and causing more damage. Do this sparingly.

Don’t remove mulch from your perennials or roses yet. They still need protection from cold temperatures. In fact, if the mulch looks thin in places, you might want to add more or move it back in place if the wind has blown it around.

Don’t assume that your lawn needs to be fertilized. Applying a high-nitrogen fertilizer in April may cause grass to grow too fast, before roots can grow to support the lawn. This makes a lawn less tolerant of summer heat. In most cases, an application of fertilizer in April is not needed when lawns were fertilized the previous fall or if clippings are returned to the lawn. If an April application appears to be necessary, apply the fertilizer at a reduced rate.

Dig in! Do these gardening chores now.

Prune trees and shrubs: Early March is a good time to prune deciduous trees and shrubs (except for birch, maple, walnut, and elm). Remove dead, dying, or unsightly parts of the tree, and branches that are crossed against each other. This is also a good time to prune fruit trees to ensure maximum fruit production. If you suspect that any branches are disease-infected, be sure to sterilize your pruning tools between every cut.

Cut back your ornamental grasses. Small grasses can be cut back with hand tools, on some of the larger grasses you may need to use a hedge trimmer. If so, it will be a dusty job – you may want to wear a nose/mouth mask.

If you didn’t cut back your perennials last fall, you can do that now. Carefully remove last year’s dead growth. Don’t be surprised if you see new growth under all those dead branches and leaves. Once the ground thaws, perennials can be divided and transplanted.

Aerating your lawn in the spring is more beneficial than power raking. It helps improve the root zone by relieving soil compaction while controlling thatch accumulation. Aeration removes plugs of thatch and soil 2 to 3 inches long (the longer, the better) and deposits them on the lawn.

SO! Get on out there and have some fun in the yard!

Watch Your Lawn for Snow Mold by Mary Small

Many lawns in the Metro area have symptoms of gray snow mold.  The damage appears as circular patches of matted, discolored grass. 

Snow mold is a fungal disease that develops when snow falls on unfrozen turf and remains there for long periods of time. The most severely damaged grass is found adjacent to driveways (where large piles of snow accumulate from shoveling) or where there are snow drifts.  Snow mold fungi thrive in temperatures just above freezing, conveniently provided by the long-lasting snow cover!

As snow recedes, circular patches of light yellow, straw or brown-colored turf suddenly appear.  The grass blades in these patches are matted and may be covered with gray or white webbing.  As the grass dries out, webbing disappears and the patches crust over.  Grass blades may be killed if infestations are severe.  When temperatures warm, new leaves develop and the lawn begins to recover.  Damaged grass may be a bit slower to green up.

Although infections begin in winter under snow, fungal growth may continue after snowmelt if the grass remains cool and wet.  Once temperatures regularly exceed 45 degrees or the lawn dries out, gray snow mold activity stops.

To manage snow mold, rake the patches to break up the crust and dry out the lawn.  You can follow this with a light fertilizer application in early spring.  Fungicides are available, but must be applied in the fall.

Fortunately, snow mold infestations don’t happen every year. Environmental conditions must be just right for the disease to occur and piles of long-lasting snow aren’t that common in the Metro area.

New to Colorado? Five Gardening Tips for Success by Donna Duffy

Welcome to Colorado! Regardless where you came from, you are likely to find gardening in Colorado different from your home state – both rewarding and challenging. Following are five tips to help you get started on the right foot.

1.    Get familiar with your soil. Colorado has 30-40 different classes of soil, and soils can vary immensely even in the same neighborhood. Before you start planting, take time to get a soil test. Colorado State University will analyze your soil sample for pH, soluble salts, organic matter, nitrate nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, zinc, iron, copper, manganese, lime and soil texture. The report will include suggestions that relate your results to fertilizer and soil management. There is a cost for this service, but in the long run, it will save you time and money as you create your landscape. Check out the following website for information about soil testing: http://www.soiltestinglab.colostate.edu/

2.    Once you know about your soil, be prepared to amend it. Soil amendment is a challenge in our semiarid, highly alkaline, heavy clay soils. Adding too much organic matter all at once can lead to the accumulation of natural, soluble salts. A better strategy is to slowly, over a period of years, add small amounts of organic amendments to the soil. Here are some other DOs and DON’Ts. DO: use organic mulches in addition to adding organic matter and minimize soil compaction by adding walkways in garden areas. DON’T: do unnecessary rototilling - it breaks up the soil structure; don’t use unnecessary pesticides; and don’t use plastic mulch.

3.    Pay attention to the microclimates in your yard. A microclimate is a variation of the climate within a localized area, like your yard. Walk around and make note of your different microclimates. Sunny south and west sides will be warmest. The east side of the house is cooler, and may be protected from wind. The north side of the house will be the shadiest, coolest and generally most damp. Dappled shade under trees will support plants that will burn in direct sunlight. Understanding your microclimates will help you put the right plant in the right place.

4.    Manage your turf wisely. Generally speaking, each time you water the lawn, apply enough water to moisten as much of the root zone as possible. With most soils, do not apply all the necessary water in a short period of time. It is typically most effective to apply only a portion of the water, then switch to another sprinkler to water another section of the lawn. This allows water to soak into the soil rather than run off. An hour or so later, apply the rest of the water. Aerating the lawn in the spring and fall will help reduce thatch and compaction. When it comes to mowing, the preferred mowing height for all Colorado species is 2.5 to 3 inches. Mow the turf often enough so no more than 1/3 of the grass height is removed at any single mowing. A great resource is CSU’s Fact Sheet on Lawn Care: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07202.html

5. Go native! Taking a walk in Colorado's plains, foothills or mountains will bring you face-to-face with the diversity of native plants in our area. For the home garden, select native plants that fit most closely with your elevation, soil, sun and water conditions (remember your microclimates!). Most native plants do well with non-native companion plants to produce continuous bloom from spring to fall. For starters, you could consider these easy-to-grow natives: Rocky Mountain penstemon, prairie coneflower, desert goldenrod, and blue flax. Some native shrubs include Apache plume, rabbitbrush, potentilla, and western sandcherry (photo below). Check out CSU’s Master Gardener home page for extensive information about native plants, shrubs and trees: http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/

Lawns May Contribute to Global Warming

Perhaps, dear gardener, you are considering getting rid of your lawn. Putting in a meadow  or a vegetable garden. Some studies conclude that this is a good thing! Ponder this one.

ck

Lawns May Contribute to Global Warming - Yahoo! News

Fungus Among Us by Donna Duffy

I love walking through my neighborhood, checking out the gardens and landscaping. There’s always something new and interesting. Lately, I’ve been slogging through puddles and mud from all of this marvelous rain we’ve had. No surprise, there’s lots of fungus popping up.

This “colony” of mushrooms was growing right beside the sidewalk in some rain-soaked soil. These mushrooms looked like they were growing right on top of each other.




Further down the block, this “fairy ring” caught my attention. I’ve heard about this configuration of mushrooms, but had never seen it before.



Of course, I went directly to the CMG website to learn more. Here’s what I learned:
Mushrooms may grow in a circle around grass, forming "fairy rings." Grass inside these rings can be a darker green and grow more quickly. In some cases, there are so many mushrooms in these rings water cannot penetrate into the soil and the grass dries out, sometimes dying. This leaves a ring of dead, brown grass and another ring of darker green, healthy grass.
Fungicides don't usually kill fairy ring mushrooms in this region. Spring and fall aeration and several applications of a few ounces of dishwashing solution in a gallon of water on the ring will sometimes make the ring less noticeable.

Turf Mites by Mary Small, CSU Extension Agent

Our Plant Diagnostic Clinic has been seeing a number of lawn samples with the same problem - mite damage. Areas of the lawn looks dead, bleached or seems to be coming out of winter slowly. Damage is most common on south exposures, west or south slopes or in lawn areas next to sidewalks or driveways.

Upon close inspection, grass blades are speckled with whitish flecks. Some blades may be purplish. Living mites have been found in a few cases, but generally they are undetectable now. Turf mites are tiny, spider-like relatives that are active during the winter and early spring, when they suck sap out of the grass plants.

The best management strategy is to make sure lawns are watered in fall and winter months when it is dry and there has been little precipitation. This past fall and winter were dry and provided ideal conditions for these creatures to develop. Drought stress goes hand in hand with mites.

At this time of the year there is little that can be done except to over seed or sod damaged areas and be prepared for them next year.