Fall Lawn Care by M J Lechner

It's only a matter of time before Jack Frost will be nipping at our noses and the woes of mowing and weeding will be distant memories....but wait! Before you hang up your garden hose, let's get down to 'grass tacks' and get your lawn prepped for fall.

**The first step in fall lawn care is to aerate. Aeration breaks up our Colorado clay soils and allows for moisture, fertilizer and grass seeds to settle in. Renting an aerator from a local nursery is one idea, but there are lots of companies willing to do this tiresome chore for you.
**Fall is the best time of year to fertilize Colorado's lawns. Promotions about "lawn winterization" may sound daunting, but there's nothing scary about it. Simply fertilize with nitrogen sometime during late September to early November along the Front Range, and earlier in the mountains.

Apply at least one pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Remember that turf must be green when nitrogen is applied. Also, make sure that the soil is moist so the nitrogen will dissolve easily. If not, irrigate and wait a day before fertilizing. Fertilizer applied to very dry, cold soil or to dormant turf won't be used efficiently. While nitrogen is the most important nutrient, there is no harm if fertilizers also contain some phosphorous or potassium.
The benefits of fall fertilizing include a healthier turf before winter, a healthier root system, and stimulating a turf that greens up earlier in the spring without excessive top growth. Fall fertilization produces dense, green spring lawns without the mowing chores that come with spring fertilization. It should be a part of every good lawn care program.


**Large-leaf weeds and any weeds that are in flower are eyesores. They should be pulled or destroyed before they go to seed, or they will become an increasing nuisance. Occasional weeds here and there can be pulled by hand or with a weed puller. Heavy infestations probably are removed most easily with the help of an all-purpose lawn weed killer.

**Fall grass seed planting is an excellent way to fill in the bare spots in your lawn. Typically, fall weather has an ideal about of rain fall and temperatures for grass seed germination. You have two options for fall grass seed planting. You can plant the seeds in September and the grass will germinate and establish this year, or you can plant the seeds after this, and they will stay dormant for the winter and germinate in early spring, when the conditions are ideal as well. The bonus of a late fall grass seed planting is that many of the local birds will have left by then, making the seed less vulnerable to them. Over-seeding after aeration provides the perfect nursery pockets for the new grass seeds. Then the winter rain or snow will quickly cover it up until spring.

**Don't mow turf shorter in late fall. Leaving turf a bit longer helps to keep it healthy over the long cold winter months. Finally, adjust sprinklers for fall watering; with the cooler days, the lawn needs less water, so to quote the Denver Water Board, "use only what you need!" Your lawn will thank you next spring by greening up early and staying healthy all season long.

For additional information about lawn care, call the Jefferson County CSU Extension at 303-271-6620.

A Summer Bummer: Aphids in the Garden by MJ Lechner

You have a cup of coffee in your hand as you stroll through your garden in the early spring morning, enjoying all the new sights and smells.  As you approach the roses, you notice something is not quite right- large clusters of white are covering the new shoots…  what the devil?  Oh no!  APHIDS!
What are they?
Aphids, also known as plant lice or greenflies, are small plant-eating insects, and members of the superfamily Aphidoidea. Aphids are soft-bodied insects that use their piercing sucking mouthparts to feed on plant sap. They usually occur in colonies on the undersides of tender ‘terminal growth’ (at the ends of the leaves). Heavily-infested leaves can wilt or turn yellow because of excessive sap removal. While the plant may look bad, aphid feeding generally will not seriously harm healthy, established trees and shrubs.

 Aphids produce large amounts of a sugary liquid waste called "honeydew". The honeydew that drops from these insects can spot the windows and finish of cars parked under infested trees. A fungus called sooty mold can grow on honeydew deposits that accumulate on leaves and branches, turning them black. The appearance of sooty mold on plants may be the first time that an aphid infestation is noticed. The drops can attract other insects such as ants, that will feed on the sticky deposits.

HOW THE PROBLEM STARTS
Esteemed Colorado State entomologist, Whitney Cranshaw, notes that “Aphid populations often spike in springs when there is a prolonged period of cool, wet weather.”  Some reasons for this include yummy new plant growth, promoted by rains and favorable temperatures, provides perfect plant conditions for aphids thrive.  Cool temperatures slow down their predators quite a bit more than the aphid, so the aphid populations are safe and their numbers quickly soar.

“Aphids can occur on a very wide variety of plants - indeed it is hard to find any plant species that does not support one or more of the 350+ species of aphids that occur in Colorado.   Oaks, lindens, walnuts, poplars, Norway maple, and most ‘stone fruits’(like peaches and apricots) are among the trees that often support large numbers of aphids.  Spirea, roses, and many flowers can be common aphid hosts in spring.  Even weeds may now have large numbers of aphids, such as Canada thistle. “ according to Cranshaw.

CONTROL
So what’s a gardener to do? 
Non chemical: Wash off aphids with a steady stream of water. Avoid heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer which can encourage succulent plant growth. Natural predators such as lady beetles and aphis lions feed on aphids but may not always provide adequate control. Don’t be lured into buying the bags of ladybugs on the nursery shelves.  The mature lady bugs/beetles are not all that interested in aphids as their youngsters are.  They may be amusing for the kids, but they will soon fly off and you will be left with the aphids.

Chemical: Aphid controls include pyrethrins, horticultural oils and soaps, permethrin, acephate and imidacloprid.  Check the label of products before using to ensure applications can be made to your affected plants. Some of these suggested controls may not be applied to food crops.  Contact the Jefferson County Extension at 303-271-6620 for more information.

WHAT HAPPENS IF NOTHING IS DONE?
Aphid control is most important for new plantings, where excessive sap removal is more likely to affect general plant health. Established and otherwise healthy plants can tolerate moderate to heavy aphid infestations, although affected leaves may wilt and turn yellow and there may be some premature drop.
 Good cultural practices, such as watering and fertilization, will help to reduce stress by these insects. Problems with honeydew and sooty mold may develop but tend to be temporary and disappear after the aphids are gone.
 A few aphid species produce cupped or distorted leaves; these plants may lose some of their esthetic appeal for the season. Once the distortion occurs, the leaves will remain cupped and twisted until they fall off. Usually, the infestation is not noticed until the injury has occurred. Insecticide applications often are less effective because the aphids are protected in the gnarled leaves.
  ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW LABEL DIRECTIONS FOR SAFE USE OF ANY PESTICIDE!

A Passion for Peonies by MJ Lechner

Every Spring I watch and wait.  Ever-so-slowly, the little reddish shoots emerge through the cold early spring soil and my heart skips a beat- the peonies are back!  From the first spotting until, I watch and wait patiently until one day, they burst into bloom!  It is then I am sure that spring is truly here to stay.
So, what is it about peonies that make them so darn enchanting?  Named for the ancient Balkan region & tribe, Paeonia, peonies hail from Asia and southern Europe.  They are an herbaceous (bushy) plant, meaning that they die all the way back in the winter.  Their color range is almost endless, with new hybrids being introduced each year.  Some tried and true favorites are singles, (e.g. Athena, Dad, Krinkled White, Scarlet O’Hara, Sea Shell) Japanese, (Nippon Beauty, Madame Butterfly) Semi-Double, (Paula Fay, Coral Charm, Miss America, Buckeye Belle) Double (Ann Cousins, Gardenia, Kansas, Paul M. Wild, Tourangelle) and Bomb-Double (Red Charm, Raspberry Sundae, Mons Jules Elie).

Planting, transplanting and dividing peonies is relatively easy and is best done in early fall (but may be done in spring as soon as soils are workable). Each plant requires an area about three feet in diameter. Dig a generous hole, large enough to accommodate the roots and incorporate aged organic matter, such as compost, in the bottom. Place the peony in the prepared hole so that the eyes (small, red-colored buds) are one to two inches below the soil's surface. This is crucial, as planting them too deeply will leave you with a beautiful bush, but alas, no blooms.  Backfill and water well.
Peonies may be left undisturbed for many years. A decline in flower usually indicates overcrowding and the need for division. Carefully lift the clump and wash away the soil to expose the eyes. Using a clean, sharp tool, divide the clump into sections, each with three to five eyes and good roots. Replant immediately.
Now, what about those darn ants?  Are they really necessary for the blossoms?  In a word, “NO!” That is just a persistent old wives tale.  The presence of ants on peony blossoms is neither beneficial nor harmful to the plants--they are simply attracted to the sugary liquid secreted by flower buds.  If they persist after the flowers open, cut the stems and shake the flowers and the ants will fall out of them.
 In the Chinese culture, the peony symbolizes happiness and prosperity.  May they grace your garden and bring you both in the springtime!

May Madness by MJ Lechner

Well, it 's come and gone:  Mother’s Day, the unofficial start of gardening here in Colorado!  Everybody will soon be elbowing their way through the aisles at the garden centers grabbing for six packs of petunias and black pots of poppies…but wait!  Before you fill your cart with annuals, here are a few things to consider.

When to Plant:  Most annuals need to be hardened off before planting.  This just means that you set your new acquisitions outside during the day and bring them at night to toughen them up.  Do this for at least a week to get them in shape for planting.   Tender annuals shouldn’t be planted until after all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm.  Color-starved gardeners with enclosed back yards will push the envelope and will have planted on Mother’s Day.  The prudent gardeners will wait.  Our predicted last frost date is usually May 15th.  
Where to Plant :   Most annuals like at least 6 to 8 hours of sun a day. Some favorites are petunias, calibrachoas (similar to mini-petunias), zinnias, snapdragons, cosmos and geraniums. (While you are stocking up, don’t forget the dahlias!  Dahlias come in an array of colors, shapes and sizes and are ideal as cut flowers in arrangements.) There are many annuals that will do well in part shade.  These include ageratum, begonia, coleus, dianthus, fuschia, impatiens and lobelia. All will bring you repeating joy throughout the summer season.  If you are putting these into your favorite pots, don’t forget to ‘recharge’ the soil.  You can do this by simply adding a bit of compost and new potting soil to what is already there to freshen things up for the new inhabitants.
How to Plant :   If you are like most gardeners, you want flowers and you want them now!  Don’t bother separating the plants from your four or six packs, dig a big enough hole and put the entire group in together.  This will give you the instant “WOW”  that you have waited all winter for.  Before planting, water your plants and the soil in your bed well. Remove the plants from their pots gently to disturb the roots as little as possible. (If they are in peat pots, tear the pots slightly to make it easy for the roots to grow through.)   If the roots are compacted, loosen them gently before planting.  Dig the hole slightly larger than the root balls, and set the plants at the same level that they were in the pot.  (That is to say, don’t sink them too deeply or plant them on a hill.)  Carefully firm the soil around the plants and  water well after planting. Keep moist until the plants are established and new growth has started. Space your groupings to allow for air circulation and summer growth.

Finish off the process with a dose of slow release granular fertilizer (like Osmocote).  Easy on green-dissolve-in-water fertilizers (like Miracle-Gro), as over use can cause a build-up of salts in the soil, especially here in Colorado.

What Next?    1)  Water judiciously.  This means you neither drowned nor starve them for water, but feel the soil before turning on the hose.  2)  Deadhead the spent blooms by pinching them off to encourage more flowers.  3)  Look around for more places to plant all the rest of the flowers you impulsively bought at the garden center….

Bushwhacking! Proper Shrub Pruning by M J Lechner

Early spring is a good time to sharpen those pruners and get busy thinning and shaping the shrubs and bushes on your property. 

The first thing to consider is whether or not  blooms form on old branches or on new wood.  Forsythia, lilacs and hydrangea all bloom on last year’s growth, so they should be left alone until after they flower.  Hibiscus, many clematis and buddleias (butterfly bushes) bloom on fresh growth, so they can be thinned and shaped before the bloom season. 

There are two ways to approach pruning your shrubs: one is to thin and the other is to regenerate the entire plant.  Thinning is the less drastic approach.
Remove all the dead, diseased and weak (thin-diameter) branches.
Remove all the crossing, rubbing branches and those that lay on the ground.
Remove some of the larger stems (10-50%) from the older branches.
Selectively shorten and thin the remaining stems.
Remove some of the new sucker growth

Regenerative pruning is not for the faint of heart.  It literally means cutting your shrub all the way to the ground and letting it regenerate.  This is best done when a shrub has really gotten out of hand.  Before doing so, consider the following:
Is the shrub healthy and vigorous?
Is this a shrub that will produce abundant new stems?  (Old lilacs that are non-producers or tend to develop powdery mildew are perfect candidates!).
Is this a grafted shrub?  If so, be careful not to cut below the graft.

This is not always the easiest of garden chores, but doing before the heat of summer and the extra weight of  leaves makes it a whole lot easier. Get busy!

Time to Limb up for Spring! Proper Tree Pruning by M J Lechner

Early spring, before bud burst, is the perfect time to assess any small trees on your property.  A couple of things to think about as you walk around your yard:
Are your pruners in shape?  If not, its time to either invest in a good set of by-pass pruners or head to your nearest gardening center to have them sharpened. By pass pruners give you the clean cut you need when pruning. 
Do you spot any co-dominate trunks?  Now is the time to choose your leader and either remove or shorten the other branches vying for the top spot.  As hard as it is to pick, it will save you a lot of heartache in the future- especially when we have heavy wet spring storms!   Most limb failure in Colorado comes from unattended co-dominant  branches….

Are your small trees becoming exceedingly ‘decurrant’ or bushy?  We all want lovely rounded trees, but not too soon.  Delay the development of a decurrant form by maintaining the leader and selecting a few strong permanent branches higher up in the tree.
Are your branches ‘in the zone’?  For small trees, such as a Chanticlear Pear, you will want your canopy to be at least 5 feet up.  You can elevate the canopy by gradually removing the lower branches.
How’s your ratio? A good rule of thumb for any tree is to attempt to maintain a 60/40 ratio of crown to trunk.  That means the trunk should be a bout 40% of the total height with the crown comprising 60%.
Take advantage of this gorgeous weather to give your small trees ‘the once over’.  They will thank you by living longer, healthier lives in your gardens.

We 'Sedum' and We Loved 'em! by MJ Lechner

In a quiet corner lot in northwest Denver, a garden gem has been created. Stepping into Megan's yard is like stepping into an artist's studio - it is awash with stuff and color! Megan likes to collect things for her middle school art classes and for her own art work. She also likes to collect sedum.

Sedum turn up in her eclectic garden in the most unusual containers: upturned Tiffany lampshades, old chairs painted Santa Fe blue, a purple antique washing machine, a rusty watering can; you name it and she has sedum planted in it. And it looks fabulous!!!

Megan has the artist's eye for both color and imagination. If I ever tried to make my yard look like hers, the neighbors would call Code Enforcement and Jeffco Mental Health, but in her yard, it is perfect! There is a definite echo of New Mexico in each of her garden vignettes. With the rich colors and use of unique statuary, you can almost smell the chiles roasting and the pinon in the air...

My little Power Shot does not do her brilliant colors justice, but they give you just a sample of the many treasures nestled in this jewel box garden.