Moving Houseplants Indoors by Sharon Routa

What to do now!  No more daily watering or constant deadheading.

One of the projects I’ll be doing this fall is moving house plants indoors.  Before I move them back indoors, I put them in a shadier part of the yard.   This helps them make an easier adjustment to the change in light and environment they are going to undergo.

I cut them back, getting rid of damaged growth; this also helps to control the size of plant, and encourages new growth.  Fertilize one last time before you bring plants into the house.  Do all of this before the weather turns cool or they may go into shock.  One symptom of shock is leaf drop.  Plants will usually survive this with regular watering.   It’s difficult for plants to deal with changes in light and temperature.  Check the foliage and soil thoroughly for pests before you bring them indoors.  If an insecticide is needed, read the label carefully before applying.  Be certain you check the drainage holes on containers for slugs or bugs, which you can manually remove. 


If the plants we bring indoors have been growing in the ground, it’s important to pot the plants properly.  The pot should have drainage holes in the bottom and a dish to hold water.  Use potting soil, not garden soil which can be too fine for drainage pots.

  Many of these plants will require full sun and humidity when they are relocated indoors. I mist them regularly and on occasion put them in the sink or tub and give them a shower.

They do not require fertilizer but water them deeply, but infrequently.  Late fall and winter are not the growing season and most plants are at rest during this time.

Moving plants outside for the summer improves their vitality.  I have had moderate success with ferns, coleus, aloe, and not as much with amaryllis and bougainvillea.

What Can Your Houseplants Do For You? By Elaine Lockey

Golden pothos cuttings growing roots in water

Your houseplants do more than just look pretty on a window sill; they actively remove harmful air pollutants from the air of your house or office. In a controlled test by NASA, some were found to remove as much as 87 percent of indoor air pollutants in a 24 hour period.

You might wonder why NASA is interested in houseplants. Houseplants are studied for their effectiveness in keeping the air cleaner inside space stations. During long space flights or time in closed capsules, air pollutants build up creating hazardous conditions for astronauts. NASA, in a joint partnership with ALCA (Associated Landscaping Contractors of America), tested to see which houseplants perform the cleanup task better.

There are three main known contaminants in spacecrafts other than carbon dioxide: formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene. These contaminants are also the most common ones in our homes and offices as they are emitted by furniture, carpeting, fabrics, office equipment and other common materials. Benzene is also a product of tobacco smoke. Newer, more energy efficient homes have higher levels of indoor pollutants due to being more air-tight while older drafty homes may not have as much of an issue. The more air leaking in and out means a higher turnover of bad air to good air - a trade-off to be sure. The phenomenon of “sick-building syndrome” has grown with the construction of new buildings. Symptoms include itchy eyes, drowsiness, respiratory and sinus congestion, headaches and many more. Over the long term these can translate to asthma and certain cancers.

Some houseplants are better at cleaning a particular pollutant over another and some are better overall than others. In a very simple explanation, plants breakdown pollutants via photosynthesis, similar to how they convert carbon dioxide to oxygen. Their soil also absorbs harmful particles and renders them into harmless matter. To get the most effectiveness, NASA recommends 1 potted plant for 100 square feet. In an average 1800 square foot home, use 15 to 18 6-8” diameter plants ideally put into most rooms. Many of these plants are able to thrive in lower light conditions making them ideal for many homes.

“To test if our friendly green goo-gobblers provide a natural way of helping combat pollutants, researchers set up conditions as follows: They placed each plant type in a sealed plexiglass chamber and injected chemicals. After 24 hours, spider plants removed 96% of the carbon monoxide, and golden pothos removed 75%. They found plants with large leaf surface areas were the most effective in removing pollutants.” (University of Illinois Extension)

Photo courtesy of Parks Wholesale Plants

According to NASA, the best plants for removing formaldehyde were heart leaf philodendron (Philodendron scandens oxycardium), spider plant (Chlorophytum elatum), and golden pothos (Scindapsus aureus). Benzene was removed effectively by the flowering plants in the study - Gerbera daisy (Gerbera jamesonii) and chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium).

Is it possible to have too many houseplants? According to my husband the answer is yes. However, he was thrilled to learn how they make our home cleaner - a great reminder I can give him next time I return with my newest purchase.

A complete list of plants that NASA tested, including the plants that removed each contaminant, by CSU Extension Agent Laura Pottorff.

African violets –not just foliage plants! by Elaine Lockey

It seems that you either have luck with African violets blooming or you don’t. I was in the no-luck category for many years. I had one particular African violet for more than 5 years with one tiny little flower the entire time. I guess I was keeping it for the cute fuzzy foliage as I’d given up on flowers. What was the secret of my non-gardener friends who could produce gorgeous blossoms on theirs?

My luck turned last year when we moved into a house with a large number of windows and a very sunny kitchen. I put the African violet in a sunny spot which promptly burned the leaves but I left it there out of frustration because at that point I wasn’t much concerned about its status. Well, within one month there were little buds popping out all over it! It then produced the prettiest deep blue-purple blooms – and it’s still blooming four months later.

Was the secret this whole time about the amount of light it wasn’t getting in the past? Yes. That was exactly it. African violets, Saintpaulia ionantha, need enough light to properly bloom. If light is too low, they will develop small dark-green leaves with long stalks and no or few blooms. Too much light can mean burned and yellowed leaves and stunted growth. You don’t need to put them in direct light. An east or north facing exposure is ideal. If you have a light meter, 600FC (foot candles) is best. Artificial light can also be used to produce profuse blooms. They need up to 16 hours of daylight but on the flip side, they need 8 hours of darkness to bloom.

Ideal night temperatures are between 65-70F and daytime temps between 75-80F, typically the temperatures that we keep our houses at – easy! Fertilize with a 100% water-soluble houseplant fertilizer, preferably one formulated for blooming houseplants. Be careful not to over-fertilize. You can usually omit the winter fertilizer and then just apply to the plant in the other seasons if the plant’s leaves are turning a lighter green or the growth rate decreases. The African Violet Society of America, AVSA, recommends periodic soil leaching so that salts don’t build up.

Water African violets when the top inch of soil feels dry. According to the AVSA, “African violets need just enough water to keep the soil moist, but never soggy.” Many nurseries sell specialized pots for African violets to help prevent water from getting on the leaves as this can cause spotting. The key is to keep the leaves dry, keep the crown dry and to use room temperature water. If you do use a regular pot, just use care to carefully lift up the leaves and water underneath them along the sides of the pot. Another watering method is a self-watering pot which you can just add water at the bottom when it gets dry or a pot in a saucer or bowl that the soil can wick water from. Whatever method you use, be careful to only water when the plant needs it to prevent rot.

Provided by Planttalk Colorado

African violet blooms come in white, pink, blue, purple, lavender, red and some bi and multi-colored forms. Flowers also come in a variety of types like ruffled, scalloped and double flowers. And yet another plant that you can become a fanatic about – collect them all! Not only do African violets offer beauty in our homes but they are one of the easier houseplants to grow. They can also easily be propagated to make additional plants. Take a leaf cutting with a bit of stalk and put in warm water, sand, or vermiculite. Roots will eventually grow and you have a whole new plant.

I’m sure you are curious as to the name of this plant and if it truly originated in Africa. In 1892, the Baron Walter von St. Paul discovered the plant in east Africa, what is now Tanzania. It was brought to Europe where it was kept as a houseplant, eventually going to the US in 1926. The wild species are blue-violet colors. For the complete history and also anything else you’d like to know about African violets, visit the AVSA website.

I haven’t yet tried propagating my own plant but now that I’m really happy with it I will try that next. If you have growing tips you’d like to share, please share them with us.

Planttalk Colorado info on African Violets

Fruit Flies and Fungus Gnats by Carol King

Have you noticed  little black bugs flying around your house this winter? You probably have either have fungus gnats or fruit flies.  You need to look at your particular situation.  Did you get a new plant for Christmas?  Probably fungus gnats; check the plant soil. Did you just start to compost your garbage or receive a fruit basket?  Probably fruit flies; check the compost collector. Neither one of these are harmful so if you don’t mind gnats buzzing your head (a la B.O. Plenty) just ignore them.


If you want to minimize fungus gnat problems allow the potting soil to dry between watering, especially the top 1 to 2 inches.  Insecticides can also be useful; check at your local garden center and be sure to follow the directions. 

For fruit flies, you can purchase fruit fly traps at the hardware store or try making your won. Construct a trap by placing a paper funnel (rolled from a sheet of notebook paper) into a jar which is then baited with a few ounces of cider vinegar. Place the jar trap(s) next to your compost collector.

Houseplant Moving Day by Elaine Lockey

“Brrrrr” says my peace lily, “How do I look in this wool hat?” says my aloe.  Okay okay, I get the hint.  With temperatures dipping down into the 40’s at night our lovely tropical houseplants are ready to move to a warmer climate, that being your house.  Leaving them out too long in the cold will damage them and eventually kill them.
There is a bit of prep that you’ll want to do to get ready for your returning houseguests.  The first thing you’ll want to plan out is space. Chances are you’ve filled in the all the spots that your plants normally take with furniture or other décor.  Time to reshuffle the room and provide inviting spots that will give your plants plenty of sunlight.  Maximize space by using plant stands with multiple levels.  Get creative, plants can look good in any room of your house as long as it offers the amount of light levels that the plant needs. Plants like Sansevieria and pothos can handle lower light levels and can take up spots further into the room allowing plants like aloes and bromeliads the strongest light.

Trim off any damaged or leggy growth. Wash off the outside of the pot and clean off the plant. Look over each plant for any noticeable insects.  You want to avoid bringing anything into your house that can and will spread to your other plants (or even you!).  Examine each leaf and the crevices between each twig.  Aphids are one of the most common houseplant inhabitant as are fungus gnats and spider mites.  Isolate your returning plants from other plants in your house by putting them in a separate room for at least three weeks to be sure they aren’t carrying anything.  For minor infestations washing the leaves off can help, for larger infestations a dose of systemic insecticide at the specified intervals will kill most leaf-eating insects as the plant absorbs it via its roots.

 Ideally you would move plants gradually to their new environment by giving them a little more time in their new spot each day before you bring them in for good.  Great idea but I know how unfeasible that can be - I have never succeeded in doing it.  I generally use the “oh geez its going to freeze tonight I’d better bring them all in!” approach.  And so they all come in at once in a big rush late in the evening and sit in the middle of my living room floor for the next week until I can figure out what to do with them.  I don’t even want to think about what might be crawling around on them! Do try though to keep their environment similar at first, so a plant that you had in a shady corner of your porch should not be immediately put in the direct sunlight of your south facing kitchen window as the leaves may drop or burn.

Cut back on watering as plants that are inside generally don’t need as much as when they were in the outdoor elements and their growth rate has slowed for the season.  Instead of watering say every Sunday, use the finger in the dirt approach and only water based on that individual plant’s needs.  Water each plant thoroughly so that water drains out the bottom of the pot but do not let plants sit in water so excess water should be discarded.   Reducing or stopping fertilizing also needs to be your approach depending on the specific plant.  Over-fertilizing during the winter can result in a buildup of salts in the soil as the plant is not using it up.
Happy Moving Day!

For help in identifying and controlling insects, check out this fact sheet for common houseplant pests. 
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05595.html

Indoor Winter Gardening

Garden Girl shows us how to create an indoor winter garden in a 6X14 foot area!

Picking a Poinsettia

There is more to picking a poinsettia than just going in the store and buying one you like.

Dr. Steven Newman, Greenhouse Crops Extension Specialist and Professor of Floriculture at Colorado State University who is a specialist in poinsettias gives this advice:

Picking a poinsettia « Gardening after five

Poinsettia Hideout by Carol King

If you are one of "those" gardeners who could not bear to throw away your poinsettia or Christmas cactus last year; and you are entertaining the notion of these plants flowering in time for the holiday season, you need to take certain steps now. My assumption is that you took proper care of the plant during the spring and summer and it is looking pretty fine right now.
To force the poinsettia into bloom*, give it 14 hours of complete, uninterrupted darkness every night for six weeks, beginning in early October. Your poinsettia must be kept completely, completely dark from 5 p.m. to 8 a.m. Put a bag or a box over it and put it in a closet that you will not open. Start this treatment right now and plan on continuing until about December 15. Once the color starts to show, continue darkness until the bracts are almost fully opened. Temperatures should be no less than 55°F at night, but not more than 70°F. During the day give the poinsettia as much sunlight as possible. Of course, you will continue to water regularly and very lightly fertilize the plant. Don’t forget to bring the plant back into the light every morning.
Do the exact same thing with Christmas cactus except they need to be cool at night; 50 degrees is ideal; perhaps a dark garage and again no light at all.

Good luck, dear gardener, I hope you have blooms galore. As for me, I am not one of "those" gardeners. I love the feeling of purging that comes from throwing the dusty old plants away. I am always ready for the holidays to end and having these plants sitting around depresses me. I will purchase a new lush plant at the garden center in December, enjoy it through the holidays and take great pleasure in heaving it into the compost heap on January 1!
*The red, yellow, or pink on the poinsettia plant is not really a bloom as such. It is a bract or leaf that changes color with the introduction of darkness. The flower is the little bitty yellow in the center of the bract.

Here's all you'll need to know:
Poinsettias Fact Sheet
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/Garden/07412.html