Blossom End Rot in Tomatoes by Stan Ames

Are some or all of your recently set tomatoes, squash, watermelons, peppers or eggplant developing dark, leathery features on their bottoms?

With the abnormal amounts of rain we have enjoyed we need to be alert to this condition and take steps to prevent its onset.  Once a fruit has been damaged it cannot be cured!

The technical term for this condition is “Blossom End Rot” and in some areas it is just referred to as “BER”. This condition is a result of the plant’s need for calcium not being satisfied.


Plantalk Colorado’s publication No. 1471 lists six major causes for this condition and we, in Jefferson County, have experienced three of those causes this year.

1. Sharp changes in temperature from cool to hot weather.
2. Extreme temperature fluctuation.
3. Waterlogged soils from too much rain or excessive watering.

Prevention steps include ensuring your plants are in well-drained soil, enjoy an even supply of water (mulching helps), taking care not to cause root damage when weeding and avoiding the use of high nitrogen content fertilizers. Keep that lawn fertilizer away from your plants!

The complete publication can be seen on the web at www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1471.
Additional information can be found in the Colorado State Extension website www.ext.colostate.edu by searching for: Recognizing Tomato Problems, Tomato diseases, and Tomatoes for the home Gardens.

Don’t forget the Extension website listed above is an outstanding source of information on most gardening issues.  Make it your first source of information! Or call the Jefferson County CSU Extension directly at 303-271-6620.

Tomato Problems? Try Flea Beetles! by Stan Ames

• Do some of the leaves on your tomato plants have holes in the lower outside leaves and the leaves are turning yellow?
• What should you do?
• Any other symptoms?
• Large green worms been seen on the plant? No?
• How about little tiny white or gray little bugs (Aphids)? No again!
• Blackish spots on leaves and the edge turning yellow? No!
• Just lots of little tiny holes in the leaves and they leaves are turning yellow? Right!

All of the symptoms mentioned lead to the diagnosis of Flea beetles! These pests chew little holes in the leaves! Inspect the underside of the affected leaves and look for very shiny little brown or black beetles about the size of a straight pin head. However they may have their feast and moved on to the next plant before you noticed the damage.


Other common causes of tomato problems in Colorado are:

• Phosphorus deficiency
• Curly Top virus – leaves and stems become stiff
• Psyllids – stems may become distorted
• Flea Beetles – adults chew small holes in the leaves
• Tomato hornworms – voracious feeders, they strip leaves from the stems.
• Early blight – produces brown or black spots on older leaves
• Septoria leaf spot – white or gray spots on leaves
• Whiteflies and aphids Cucumber mosaic virus – leaves appear shiny and are sticky
• Fusarium wilt and Fusarium crown rot – leaves turn brown and wilt.

Here's a complete article on recognizing tomato problems .

Why Aren't My Iris Blooming by Stan Ames

While manning the Master Gardener booth at the Golden Farmer’s Market last Saturday a woman asked me why her Iris do not all bloom.

I thought for a while and suggested they might be overcrowded or stressed from last year’s dividing activities. She said she had not divided any of her Iris, ever, and asked when to do that.  I said not until after the blooming was complete and not to cut back leaves until the divisions were made. She seemed satisfied with the answers and went on to get a nice big juicy breakfast burrito from the booth next to ours.  Imagine smelling that wonderful aroma all morning and not having enough time to buy one for yourself, much less eating one.  AND they were all gone when we broke down the booth!


Well, I have been thinking of that question now for a couple of days and decided to look up Iris on the http://www.ext.colostate.edu/  website.  Remarkably and somewhat surprisingly I was mostly correct!

 According to “Plantalk Colorado” 1018-Perennials: How to divide
“Plants that begin to produce more foliage at the expense of flowers may be overgrown.  To determine if plants are overgrown, count the number of stems that emerge from the base.  If five or more strong stems are present the plant may need to be divided.” (I found one clump with ten in my collection)
“When dividing plants, pick a cool spell in the spring or fall, and gently dig up a clump with as many roots as possible.  Expose the central rhizome or stem by shaking or washing away the soil.  Then, with a sharp knife, cleanly slice the plant into several new pieces.  Leave a minimum or two to three growing points, or it may take many years for the plants to recover. Place in newly prepared soil and keep them moist until they re-establish.  Share surplus divisions with friends.”  (Most likely when I do this in August I will be looking for parked cars with the windows rolled down!)

“It’s a good idea to start with a single clump of one kind of plant until you master division, rather than risking an entire planting.”  (It is  wise to have a first aid kit handy, sometimes sharp knives slip!)

According to “Plantalk Colorado” 1041-Iris
“Iris should be divided every three to four years.  Divide the rhizomes, which are underground stems, after the plant have finished flowering, but no later than August.”  (I was close!) “Discard any segments that are mushy or riddled with holes.  Separate the healthy rhizomes into segments with one fan of leaves and several feeding roots. Cut the leaves back to six inches. When setting the new plant spread the roots out in the soil and position the top third of the rhizome above the soil surface.  Arrange the foliage to face outward away from the center of a group.

Other helpful information can be obtained from Colorado State University Extension fact sheets:
Perennial gardening
Flowers for Mountain Communities 
Herbaceous Perennials

Planting a Butterfly Garden by Stan Ames

A Vanessa atalanta a.k.a. “Red Admiral”on a Purple Coneflower

Planning a butterfly garden this season?  These techniques will help you plant a successful garden.

Before you invest you time and money in constructing a butterfly garden it is important to know what butterflies are common to your area. Identification of your guest is very important, as each butterfly has preferences for their “Caterpillar Host Plants” and their favorite flowers for a nectar source.

Attracting butterflies then becomes relatively easy. In addition to a place for their eggs and a good source of nectar, butterflies like flowers for some of the same reasons that we do, bright colors with sweet fragrance.


The websites, below have useful photographs to help you identify your visitors and charts that will show you which plants are “irresistible” to which butterfly.
http://coloradofrontrangebutterflies.com/frontrange-checklist - has listings of over 100 varieties with links to photographs and details about most.
http://www.butterfliesandmoths.org/gallery - pictures for identification.
http://butterflywebsite.com/butterflygardening.cfm - chart of plants that attract, by specific butterfly.

In addition to the right choice of flowers you should incorporate a small source of water (a decorative dish) and perhaps a stepping stone or two for warmth.

Your site does not have to be very large, maybe only six to eight feet in diameter but it needs to be protected from wind and receive between four to six hours of sunlight a day.

Could that be a Monarch calling?
Too many look-a-likes to be sure.

In my garden, I used : Blanket flower), Butterfly bush) Tickseed (Coreopsis) – “Early Sunrise”, Purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea), Sedum spectabile, Zinnias (Zinnia laageana), Petunias and Snowdrift alyssum (Lobularia maritima, but also have Honeysuckle close by. This year I may add Cosmos and Joe Pye Weed.

 Finding a “Butterfly House” ready for use is a challenge, but they are relatively easy to construct.
Use a good quality 3/8” plywood and protect the house with paint or varnish.

Construction is simple and the dimensions are not critical beyond having the height about four times the width. Just use a good quality 3/8” plywood and protect the house with paint or varnish. There is no need to teach your visitors they need to fold up their wings to get in the house. They will know it is just for decoration.

The size and shape of the garden does not need to be large, mine is only five by six feet with a butterfly house in the middle to add a little decoration. The flowers in my garden are indicated below and work relatively well, just keep the flowers bright and base the selection on the specific butterflies you have identified in your area. Again, make sure the garden is protected from the wind!

The Care and Feeding of Outdoor Wooden “Chain Saw” Bears and Other Critters by Stan Ames

For those of us that enjoy these whimsical sculptures, there are some definite guidelines for their care and preservation.

When you buy your critter ask the sculptor what brand and color of spray paint was used to add the contrasting colors to it. Buy the same paint for your own application in current or future maintenance to your new or existing critters.

Where do you buy these sculptures? You can “Google” for them using “wooden chainsaw garden animals” as your search request, or there are several vendors just outside of Manitou Springs or in Nederland.

When you bring home your “pet” from the local game preserve the very first and critical step is to closely inspect the critter for cracks! Cracks, regardless of size, let moisture inside and allow for premature rotting and access for insects. This is important even if you plan to display the statue on a porch or in a covered area.

Sometimes they break the rules!

These cracks should be filled with an adhesive sealant or caulk before placing the creature in your garden. I personally prefer “Liquid Nails” as it usually dries to a color that will, at least, blend with the natural color of the wood.

Fill these cracks as completely as possible using a smaller opening in the nozzle of your adhesive than normal. Larger cracks may make it necessary to press the sealant down into the crack using a tool made from, perhaps, a popsicle stick or similar device.
Once the crack is filled, clean the excess Liquid Nails from the surface of your critter using mineral spirits and several clean cloths. This may take several applications, but the result will be a more invisible repair.

After the sealant cures, 24 hours to several days depending on the size and depth of the crack, use the same paint color the sculptor used to cover the repair. Next apply two coats of your favorite transparent wood treatment to the entire critter. If you have a wooden deck consider using the same treatment as you apply to the deck, just make sure it is transparent so you can show off the grain and contrasts in your statue.

Another major cause of terminal disease for wooden critters is absorption of moisture through the bottom or base of the statue through capillary action. The moisture will eventually give your critter an incurable case of fungus, mold and even insect pests. Therefore it is critical to place the critter on a surface that allows for rapid drainage of rain or lawn sprinkler system water.

NEVER place your critter on bare soil! The best option is to dig a shallow (six inches deep at least) hole approximately half again as large in diameter of the critter and fill it with large and medium size river rock and place your critter on the rock. The idea is to provide rapid drainage of water and not to allow water to accumulate and stand around the bottom of the critter.

In winter you should allow your critter to “hibernate” in a dry cool place like your basement or garage. Snow melt will find its way into the smallest of cracks and the rapid temperature shifts during a typical Colorado winter will cause more cracks to develop and existing cracks to expand.