The Great Christmas Tree Conundrum: Real or Fake? by Carol King

Heading Out for the Perfect Tree!

If you are considering a “real tree” for Christmas,  here are a couple of options when looking at fresh trees.

You can cut your Christmas tree at several U. S. Forest Service locations near the Front Range, provided you have a permit.  A permit costs $10 per tree, with a limit of 5 trees.  Cutting time this year is December  3-11, 2011.   The USDA Forest Service web site has information on where and when to get a permit, cutting dates and times, tips on caring for your tree including a recipe for a fireproofing mixture, and other details. There are also Christmas tree farms along the Front Range that allow you to “cut your own.”


  Perhaps you would rather not make a day of it and instead want to stop by a tree lot or nursery on the way home from work. Here are a few simple steps that will ensure you get the freshest tree and keep it that way. When buying a fresh tree, check that the needles bend rather than break with gentle pressure; shake it carefully to look for needle loss; and check the cut end: it should be sticky with sap. If these conditions exist, buy your tree and take it home.

Whether you get your tree in the mountains or from a tree lot or farm, here are some tips from Plantalk Colorado on keeping it fresh:

 As soon as you get the tree home,  make a new cut at the end of the trunk about an inch above the old one. Keep the cut end standing in water, whether you decorate the tree immediately or store it to decorate later. If you store the tree, keep it in a cool, shaded place.
Check the tree's water level frequently, and refill as necessary. Fresh evergreen trees can take up an amazing amount of water -- up to a gallon during their first 24 hours off the tree lot. Because many tree stands have small reservoirs, you'll need to fill the reservoir twice daily.
Your tree will last longer indoors if it's located away from direct sun, radiators or heat vents, fireplaces, television sets and other sources of heat. Take care to place your tree in a location that won't block any room exits. Check electric lights to make sure cords aren't frayed or worn, and keep metallic ornaments and tinsel away from bulb sockets. Avoid combustible decorations, and make sure electrical circuits aren't overloaded. A fresh tree that receives good care should remain in safe condition indoors for ten days to two weeks.

      How about a potted tree that you can plant in the garden after the holiday?  Yes, you can plant trees in December.  Many nurseries offer live, potted Christmas trees including pinyon, ponderosa, limber, Austrian, bristlecone and Scotch pines.

These potted trees are usually sold when they are two to six feet tall. Be sure to consider the mature size of the tree, where it will be planted after Christmas, and the weight of the tree in the pot before purchasing.

The two most important factors for successfully growing a live potted tree are to not allow the rootball to dry out and avoid keeping the tree indoors too long. Seven days indoors is a maximum time recommended, but five days is better.

Pre-dig the planting hole, as the ground can be frozen in late December and early January. Store the soil backfill in the garage or outdoors in a black plastic bag so it is less likely to freeze.
You can keep the potted tree in the garage for a few days before bringing it indoors, but frequently check the rootball to ensure that it stays moist but not soggy. After Christmas, the tree can again be placed in the garage for a few days before planting outdoors. While indoors, decorate the tree with small lights, which generate less heat, and place it away from sources of heat like fireplaces, heat vents and television sets.

For a complete guide to the proper planting of trees, check here.  Happy Holidays!

Help For Storm Damaged Trees by Carol King

CSU Extension

Many Front Range residents awoke on Wednesday to find that their trees had been further damaged by Colorado's second major fall snowstorm of 2011. It seems that we are not catching a break this year!  Perhaps you are wondering just what to do about it.

The Colorado State Forest Service offers these first aid tips for dealing with damage.

Read about it here.

What to Do With Green Tomatoes by Carol King

Lakewood Gardener, Jose Lara with his bounty of vegetables! Photo by Diana Roca.

This is the time of year when gardeners have a plethora of unripe tomatoes in their gardens.  If your garden is no exception, here are a few tips on dealing with all those green tomatoes.

To speed-ripen on the vine try these:

• Stop watering. This encourages ripening.
• Root prune the plant. Dig into the soil 6-8” deep and cut around a circle 12” from the stem. Shake the plant but don’t dig it up. This will stress the plant and the fruit will ripen faster.
• Pinch off any flowers, small fruit, new shoots, and suckers. It’s too late for them to become anything. Do this now and all the plants energy will go toward ripening.

When frost is expected, try these:

• Cover the plant completely and anchor so the wind doesn’t blow it off. Use old blankets, thick plastic, or anything similar and make sure it goes all the way to the ground providing the plant with trapped warmth.
• Harvest the tomatoes by pulling the plant from the ground and hanging it upside down in a garage or other shelter. Check often for ripe ones. 
• Pick the pink ones and put them on the counter to ripen
• Pick the green tomatoes and store them in a shallow tray lined with newspaper. They need 60-70 degrees and no light. The warmth ripens them not light.

  If all else fails, have a Fried Green Tomato Party! They are yummy, unhealthy, fried, and a real crowd pleaser. Here’s my recipe as taught to me by my Texas cousins. You know it’s good.

Emma Jean and Rita Jane’s Fried Green Tomatoes*
Ingredients: green tomatoes, eggs, milk, flour, cornmeal, salt, pepper, vegetable oil for frying
Wash and dry the tomatoes.
Slice about ¼ inch thick.
Salt each slice on both sides and set aside.
Beat egg(s) with a splash of milk making a batter
Put cup or so of flour in a plate, pepper it a little and mix with a fork
Put cup or so of corn meal in a plate, pepper it a little and mix with a fork. I prefer Bob’s Red Mill medium or coarse ground.
Put ½ inch of good vegetable oil in skillet. An iron skillet is the best. Heat to 350 degrees or a good frying temperature. You may have to discard the oil and add new if you are frying a lot of the tomatoes.
Dip salted tomato slices into flour, then into egg mixture, then into cornmeal.
Plop in the skillet and brown both sides.
*Quantities in this recipe depend on the number of tomato slices you are frying. It’s a very forgiving recipe.

Good with a nice chardonnay or cold beer of choice!

Too Much Water! by Carol King

The afternoon rains that have persisted over the last couple of weeks are a mixed blessing for gardeners. While we revel in the much need moisture, too much water can cause as many maladies as not enough water.

Here are some problems to be on the look out for:


Vegetables:

Early Blight on tomato

 Early blight in tomatoes is caused by the fungus Alternaria solani. Symptoms become prevalent during the hotter months. This disease produces brown to black, target-like spots on older leaves. If severe, the fungus also attacks stems and fruit. Affected leaves may turn yellow, then drop, leaving the fruit exposed to sunburn. Sanitation is the best control. Remove all diseased plant tissue on the ground. Avoid overhead irrigation. If the infestation is heavy, sulfur dust may help protect new leaves from infection. Follow label directions carefully, as sulfur can burn leaves when temperatures are high.

Septoria leaf spot

 Septoria leaf spot is another fungal disease found in tomatoes. Characteristic symptoms are white or gray spots on leaves, surrounded by a black or brown margin. Control is similar to early blight.


Root rot fungus is directly related to overwatering. Management of root rot requires soil improvement, and proper watering. Avoid overwatering. Always allow the soil around plants to dry out a few inches below the surface before watering again. Improve moisture conditions around the crown of the plant by exposing it to drying conditions. Remove some of the mulch or pull it back from the base a few inches. However, do not expose roots.


Powdery mildews are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth found on leaves, flower buds and stems. Once the disease becomes a problem:

Powdery Mildew

Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the production of succulent tissue, which is more susceptible to infection.

• Avoid overhead watering to help reduce the relative humidity in the canopy of the plant.
• Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, etc.). For infected vegetables and other annuals, remove as much of the plant and its debris in the fall as possible. This decreases the ability of the fungus to survive the winter. Do not compost infected plant debris. Temperatures often are not hot enough to kill the fungus.
• Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation. This helps reduce relative humidity and infection.

If cultural controls fail to prevent disease buildup or if the disease pressure is too great, an application of a fungicide may be necessary. Follow the instructions on the fungicide label for use on specific plant species, varieties, rates to be used, timing of applications, and waiting periods before harvest.


Lawn and Flower Beds:

Sprinkler Systems should be adjusted. Do not continue to water on a scheduled basis until water is actually needed. Let Mother Nature be your sprinkler!

Powdery mildews can be found on shrubs, grass, and flowers and are characterized by spots or patches of white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth. Control is the same as for vegetables.

Fairy Ring

 Mushrooms. Heavy rains or prolonged rainy periods often encourage the growth of mushrooms (toadstools) in home lawns and other turf areas. Most often, the mushrooms will appear randomly across the lawn. Mushrooms may also emerge in more organized circular or part-circle patterns, "fairy ring". Mushrooms found growing in lawns should NEVER be eaten, unless you are well acquainted with the different species. Many mushrooms are poisonous to some degree and ONLY an expert can distinguish between edible and poisonous species. Since young children and pets may be tempted to eat mushrooms, remove the obvious fungal structures by raking, mowing, or hand-picking can avoid the possibility of poisoning or illness.


All Around the House:

Mosquito!

 Mosquitoes. Encephalitis, dog heartworm, and West Nile Virus are the primary mosquito-borne diseases in Colorado. Beyond viral and parasitic diseases, other health problems caused by mosquitoes include allergy and infection. Mosquitoes can be a SERIOUS health issue.


Fight the Bite Colorado recommends the following:

• Check for items that might hold water including wheelbarrows, tires, hubcaps, toys, garden equipment, pool covers, tarps, plastic sheeting, pipes, drains, boats, canoes, recycling bins and trash.
• Remove standing water in ponds, ditches, clogged rain gutters, flower pots, plant saucers, puddles, buckets, jars and cans. Completely change water in birdbaths and wading pools weekly. Drill drainage holes in tire swings.
  Stock ornamental ponds and fountains with fish that eat mosquito larvae.  
• Avoid mosquitoes by staying indoors at dawn and dusk when they are most active. 
• Wear long-sleeved shirts and long pants while outdoors.
• Apply insect repellent that contains DEET. Follow directions carefully.
  Install or repair window and door screens to keep mosquitoes out.

A complete check list can be found at their website. (www.fightthebitecolorado.com/)
For help with these or other garden problems, call the Garden Hotline at Jefferson County CSU Extension at 303-271-6620.

Aphids Abound by Carol King

Aphids

Aphid Honeydew on Ivy

 Sitting in my backyard has become an unpleasant experience.  I have lots of deciduous  trees and they all seem to have a large crop of aphids.  One evening as I looked toward the sun, I could see the aphid “honeydew”  (poop actually) pouring down like a gentle rain! When I come in from outside, I feel as if I am covered with aphids!  Is there a variety that feeds on humans?


We are also on an irrigation ditch which is host to dozens of lovely cottonwoods.  I like the cottonwood, but it is certainly the messiest tree ever.  This time of year, the cotton is flying and sticking to the aphid honeydew that covers everything.  Only a power washer can clean off the deck!

It seemed to me that the aphids are more numerous than previous years so I consulted Dr. Whitney Cranshaw, Entomology Professor and Extension Specialist at CSU, and he verified my suspicions.  Here’s what he had to say.

“The northern Front Range is seeing a surge of aphids, and has for a couple of weeks.

This is due to the cool spring, followed (most importantly) by the repeatedly rainfall events.  The former (cool temperatures) have the effective of retarding the activity of aphid natural enemies.  The latter (moisture) promotes the flush of new growth that is favored by many aphids.  And all manner of plants have had some aphid problems, each (pretty much) having their own species of aphid associate.  (There are over 350 species of aphids in CO.)

Lady Bug Larvae

  Things are turning the corner now I suspect with the warm weather.  We are seeing natural enemies ramping up in a big way and the warm weather promotes their activity.  Mostly lady beetles (larvae are everywhere).  Larvae of syphid flies and green lacewings are also important in the ultimate control of the aphids - as can be earwigs  Also there is usually a smattering of parasitic wasps (visible by the aphid mummies they produce).  I would guess that aphids will pretty much be history within two weeks.
 
That all this is going on so late is due to the cool spring.  I think the insects are at least 2 weeks, perhaps more, behind schedule this year.”

  Sure enough, last evening while my family sat on the deck, we saw numerous lady bug and lacewing larvae crawling on chair covers, (and us!)  While it is tempting to spray something, I will follow Dr. Cranshaw’s advice and let Mother Nature take her course.  It is, however, disconcerting  coming in from a day of gardening knowing that not only am I showering off a day’s worth of sweat and garden dirt, but also, the cycle of life from one insect’s perspective: aphids, aphid poop, and aphid predators!


Here’s a complete fact sheet on aphids.

Happy Fourth of July ! Natures' Fireworks

Photo by GayleL Art

Fireworks are commonly seen in the United States on the Fourth of July as a celebration of independence.

"And the rockets' red glare, the bombs bursting in air,
Gave proof through the night that our flag was still there."
- The Star Spangled Banner, the national anthem of the US

So here are 10 sparkling shots of starburst fireworks in nature.

Thanks to the online magazine "Environmental Graffiti".

Happy Fourth to all you gardeners!

What's Blooming in Your Garden? by Carol King

Here's what's blooming in my garden! What's blooming in yours? Email me your pictures at jeffcogardener@gmail.com and I'll post them also.

Black Eyed Susan

Clematis

Coreopsis

Delphinium

Heuchera

Lilies

British Parakeet Explosion: a Gardener's Concern? by Carol King

I was reading an article about the rose-ringed parakeet which is taking over parts of Britian.  The parakeets escaped or were intentionally released from cages and have survived and begun to thrive. "So what does this have to do with a gardening blog?", you might ask. I saw this one statement speculating about why they are procreating at such a phenominal rate:
"Is it that gardeners are planting more exotic ornamental plants, effectively providing imported food to match an imported bird species?"
So speculate on that, dear gardener.  Another argument for native species!
Heres the whole article.

Herbacious Perennial Trials by Carol King

Joe Pye Weed Photo Courtesy of Iowa State University

Colorado State University maintains perennial trial gardens at the W. D. Holley Plant Environmental Research Center (PERC) in Fort Collins, Colorado. The main objective of these gardens is to determine which herbacious perennials are best suited for growing in the Rocky Mountain area.

Check here for the list.

Superior Herbacious Perennials for the High Plains

Spring Lawn Care by Carol King

Tony Koski, Ph.D. Extension Turf Specialist and Professor – Colorado State University, gives us this advice on lawn care:

•   Proper watering can promote a deeply rooted, healthier turf.

• Let grass species and health, soil conditions, and weather conditions dictate irrigation practices, not the number of days between waterings.
• Mow bluegrass, ryegrass, fescue and wheatgrass to a height of 2 to 3 inches. Buffalo-grass and blue grama lawns can be mowed to this height, but also do well unmowed.
• Core cultivation is essential for all lawn areas, especially those that are thatchy or subject to high traffic. 

Here's the whole fact sheet!

The Catkins Cometh! by Carol King

I  know that spring has “sprung” when the street in front of my house becomes covered with cottonwood catkins. Our neighborhood in North Lakewood has many cottonwoods, poplar, willows, birches and aspen trees: all catkin-loaded!  And spring is definitely here.

The catkin is is a strand of tiny unisexual flowers, blooming on many species of trees. The flowers are tiny and inconspicuous, but the blooming catkins are lovely, though very short-lived.  Catkins rely on wind to spread their pollen, and we have certainly had the wind helping out. After the female flowers are fertilized, the male catkins wither and drop.

Each species of tree has its own habits and forms, which are interesting to contemplate. The brief beauty of the catkin-bearing trees hearlds early spring, a welcome sign of greenery to come!

The word catkin is derived from the Dutch katje, meaning "kitten", because it resembles a kitten’s tail. Enjoy this brief display which hints of Springtime!

Choosing Healthy Plants at the Garden Center by Carol King

Garden centers and big box stores are starting to be filled with tempting plants for your garden. How do you choose the healthiest plants; plants that will be successful in your landscape? Here are four steps to help you do just that!

1. Inspect the leaves.  Look for foliage that isn’t discolored, spotted, dried out, wilting or curling.  Spots can mean insect damage or  viral or fungal diseases. Curling, crispy or brown leaves can mean  drought stress or disease or insect damage.    Wilting plants indicate either too much watering or not enough.  Discolored foliage can mean that the plant hasn’t been receiving proper nutrition.  Check the back of the leaves also.  Don’t purchase if there is white fuzzy fungus or rust colored spots on the back.

2. Look for insects. Aphids, scales, white flies, mites and other insect pests can affect the health of your plants.  Small green or whitish bugs covering the stems means the plant is infested with aphids or scales.  “Spider” webs with brown or black dust spots means spider mites.

3. Check out the root system. Tip it out of the container .  Be careful and don’t damage the plant.    The whole root ball (the roots and soil that are contained in the container) should come out together.  If half the soil is soggy, wet and still in the container, the plant hasn’t fully established its root system.  If all of the soil came out with the plant then check to see if the roots are healthy. Healthy roots should be white to pale tan and clean looking.  If the roots are brown, grey, black, or slimy then the roots are unhealthy.

4. Choose the plant with the most branches and the most buds, not the one with the most flowers.    Plants that are just starting to bloom will establish new roots easier than plants that are older. If there aren’t any plants without blooms, cut the blooms off when you transplant.  This might seem wrong, dear gardener,  but it will actually cause the plant to put more energy into growing roots, thus becoming a healthier plant.  If you just can’t bear to cut off the blooms, at least deadhead the old blooms off as they age.

Following these few tips will help you choose the most healthy, successful plants for your garden.

Cleaning Rusty Tools by Carol King

An important gardening chore this time of year is cleaning rust off garden tools.  I am ashamed to admit (but will, dear gardener in the interest of being honest) that I don't care for my tools the way I should; as evidenced by the picture of my poor garden fork!

If you have found a pruner or other tool that was left out all winter, all is not lost.  E-how Home has a great article on how to recondition those tools.

And let's take an oath together:  "I will be kinder to my tools."

The History of the Shamrock by Carol King

Happy St. Patrick’s Day, the day when everyone in the world is Irish for a day! And the shamrock is the most recognized symbol of the Irish.

The Irish shamrock (spelled seamrog) is thought to be the white clover (Trifolium repens). What we consider to be a common lawn weed, is a native of Ireland. It has been symbolic of many things through the years. It was considered to be a sacred plant to the Druids of Ireland because its leaves formed a triad, and three is a mystical number in Celtic religion as well as many other religions. Supposedly, St. Patrick used it to illustrate the Holy Trinity to help convert Irish peoples to Christianity.


Ever wonder where the expression “the wear’o the green” came from? In the 19th century, wearing a shamrock became a symbol of the Catholic underground after a government-led religious prosecution began against Catholics. One could get hung for “wear’o the green”!

“O Paddy dear, and did you hear the news that going round?
The shamrock is forbid by law to grow on Irish ground;
St. Patrick's Day no more we'll keep, his colours can't be seen,
For there's a bloody law against the wearing of the green.”
Dion Bouicault

Today the plants we associate with St Patrick’s Day and are usually sold as “shamrocks” are actually wood sorrel or Oxalis. The Oxalis is very easy to grow. Check this article for its care.

Dear gardener, here’s a wish for a very Happy St. Patrick’s Day and this Irish blessing:

May the road rise to meet you.
May the wind be always at your back.
May the sun shine warm upon your face.
And rains fall soft upon your fields.
And until we meet again,
May God hold you in the hollow of His hand.

Rosemary and Powdery Mildew by Carol King

I received a nice little rosemary Christmas tree as a gift.  I was cooking chicken and decided to add some when I noticed it was covered with some white powdery dust.  It seems that my little tree had powdery mildew.  Rosemary grown indoors is very prone to this and the little Christmas trees especially so.  I investigated the cure and found that potassium bicarbonate products and neem oils can be used  to control this disease.  However, I was cautioned to make sure the product of choice can be used both indoors and on edible crops. Read the directions on the label and follow them perfectly since it is being used for cooking. There has been some success reported with baking soda and water: spray with a solution of 1 tablespoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart of water.  Repeat if necessary. 

I personally  just tossed it in the dust bin and put it out of its misery!

Fruit Flies and Fungus Gnats by Carol King

Have you noticed  little black bugs flying around your house this winter? You probably have either have fungus gnats or fruit flies.  You need to look at your particular situation.  Did you get a new plant for Christmas?  Probably fungus gnats; check the plant soil. Did you just start to compost your garbage or receive a fruit basket?  Probably fruit flies; check the compost collector. Neither one of these are harmful so if you don’t mind gnats buzzing your head (a la B.O. Plenty) just ignore them.


If you want to minimize fungus gnat problems allow the potting soil to dry between watering, especially the top 1 to 2 inches.  Insecticides can also be useful; check at your local garden center and be sure to follow the directions. 

For fruit flies, you can purchase fruit fly traps at the hardware store or try making your won. Construct a trap by placing a paper funnel (rolled from a sheet of notebook paper) into a jar which is then baited with a few ounces of cider vinegar. Place the jar trap(s) next to your compost collector.

Watering for Christmas in Jefferson County by Carol King

Lakewood, Colorado, December 26, 2010, 5480 feet above sea level: the day was spent watering my garden.  Yes, I am watering my garden in December and you must also. We have received less than one inch of precipitation since October making this one of the driest falls on record.

You must water if you value your landscape! It's not just me haranguing you, dear gardener, Carol O'Meara says so in the Denver Post.  The folks at Denver Water say so.  Our very own Donna Duffy says so.

DO IT!!

Here's a guide to tree watering in the winter in Colorado.

Don't Move Firewood by Carol King

It’s the time of year to curl up by the fire,  great book in hand,  a glass of your favorite wine by your side.  It’s also time to ask yourself “Where’s my firewood from?”  Did you move your firewood from another state or another area of the state?  Many agricultural and natural resources professionals believe that the movement of firewood is probably the biggest threat to our tree populations. So many people burn wood and so many people move wood without thinking. Many states have prohibitions against moving firewood from one county to another and federal regulations prohibit moving any ash logs out of quarantined areas. (Colorado does not have a prohibition.)
Our most recent tree tragedy directly related to firewood movement is thousand cankers disease that has devastated much of our black walnut population. In 2010, the disease swept east to black walnuts in North Park Hill and Washington Park and south to Harvey Park affecting at least twenty neighborhoods. It has devastated many walnuts in Jefferson County.

Thousand Cankers Disease in Walnut

In fact, much of the tree devastation that we have experienced across the county has been exacerbated by people moving firewood. Consider these:
• The emerald ash borer that has destroyed millions and millions, in fact, most of the ash trees in the Midwest and East was introduced through wood packing material carried in cargo planes or ships from Asia. It continues to be spread by firewood.
• The gypsy moth and oak wilt are spread by firewood movement.
• The beetle-borne fungus “thousand cankers disease” that is destroying all the walnuts in the metro area is suspected to have been brought from New Mexico on firewood.
• The Dutch elm disease came from a load of logs infected with the elm bark beetle that was moved from the Netherlands and has destroyed most of the American Elms in the USA.
• Other bugs that have moved into the Front Range from firewood are the Ips beetle that attacks pine and spruce and red turpentine beetles that attack native pine species. Asian longhorn beetle that attacks maples, poplar, willows and black locust;  Sirex woodwasp that attacks pines have destroyed trees in the Midwest through firewood movement.

Colorado State University Extension suggests asking these questions before buying or moving wood:

Where was this wood cut? Wood should NOT be brought in from other states. If the wood you plan to bring is infested with live mountain pine beetle larvae, you run the risk of bringing the beetle into the city. This could happen if you cut trees that are still somewhat alive. The wood from totally dead trees is ok; the beetles leave dead trees and move on to the living.


Is local wood available for purchase? Look for Colorado Forest Products logo which means 50% of wood is from Colorado forests.

Can I buy firewood at my camping/hunting destination?  Don’t take wood to your campsite. Buy your wood at your campground. Leave wood not burned in place. Don’t bring it back home.

Is this wood treated, kiln dried or de- barked?  Firewood should be dry and ready to burn. Bark should be peeled off easily and be removed from the wood.

What tree species is this wood? Ash is high risk because of Emerald Ash Borer; walnut because of thousand cankers disease.

Burn wood from local sources (“buy it where you burn it”).  Look to your conscience, dear gardener, if you decide to move firewood or bring beetle kill logs to your home. At the very least, check for bugs.

Hot Weather Garden Problems by Carol King and Donna Duffy

The Dog Days of summer are here. The Greeks and Romans believed the dog star Sirius, a prominent star in the August heavens,  was the cause of the hot, sultry weather. They considered this to be an evil time "when the seas boiled, wine turned sour, dogs grew mad, and all creatures became languid, causing to man burning fevers, hysterics, and phrensies" according to Brady’s Clavis Calendarium, 1813.

It’s also the time in the garden when hot weather causes all sorts of calamities as well and gives gardeners fevers, hysterics and phrensies!  Be on the lookout for these problems.

The lawn is getting brown! The lush green grass from spring is starting to dry up with the hot days. If your lawn is Kentucky bluegrass (very common in landscaping) this slowdown is a natural part of the life cycle. Tip #1: mow to a height of 2.5 to 3”, and return the mulched clippings back to the lawn. Tip #2: fertilization is typically not necessary from July to early August. Wait to fertilize until late fall while the grass is still green. Tip #3: when a lawn looks thirsty, a common mistake is to increase the watering time. When using a standard sprinkler system with pop-up heads, eight to ten minutes is about the optimal time any one turf zone should run so run-off doesn’t occur. The full cycle may need to be repeated two or more times depending upon rain, humidity, wind and heat in the environment.

Yikes! Spider mites! Spider mites are common pest problems on many plants around yards and gardens in Colorado. Damaged areas typically appear marked with many small, light flecks, giving the plant a somewhat speckled appearance. You might also see webbing. Tip: few insecticides are effective for spider mites and many even aggravate problems. Instead, try a periodic hosing of plants with a forceful jet of water to physically remove and kill mites, as well as remove the dust that collects on foliage and interferes with mite predators.

Leaf scorch. During the hot days of summer, many trees, shrubs, flowers and vegetables develop dry, brown leaf margins. Once leaf scorch has occurred, there is no cure. The dehydrated portions of the leaf will not turn green again, but with proper water management, the plant may recover. Tip #1: during the growing season, water deeply and infrequently. Resist the urge to water more frequently. Tip #2: in the winter, give the plant a deep watering once a month when there is no snow cover. Tip 3: avoid overfertilizing. Fertilizer spikes, that deliver concentrated salts at specific sites, can burn roots and contribute to leaf scorch.

Pollination issues.  Many summer vegetables must be pollinated by insects such as bees to set fruit, During hot weather, pollen doesn’t remain viable very long. As a result there may be a drop in vegetable production for several days during and after hot spells even if bees are present. There may be more misshapen fruit as a result of poor pollination.

Blossom drop. Temperatures in the nineties cause many vegetables to drop their blossoms before fruit forms. Squash, zucchini, tomatoes, and beans are especially prone to this. Over fertilizing and under watering also contribute to blossom drop. Tip #1: To minimize blossom drop during a heat wave, keep your garden well watered by applying around 1” of water per week if it does not rain. Tip #2: avoid high nitrogen fertilizers.  Tip #3: Mulch the vegetables to conserve moisture and keep soils cool.

Blossom end rot. Another problem that is common in hot weather is blossom end rot (BER). This disorder occurs when there is not enough calcium available to developing fruit, resulting in the lower end of the fruit turning tan or black and failing to develop. BER is most common in tomatoes, but also occurs in eggplant, peppers, watermelons, and squash. The most common causes are uneven watering, over fertilization, extreme temperatures, and low soil pH (acid soil). Tip #1:  keep vegetables evenly moist. Do not allow them to dry out during dry spells. Tip #2: do not over fertilize with high nitrogen fertilizers.

If you have other “phrensies” in the garden, call the Jeffco CSU Extension Office at 303-271-6620.  We’ll get through this together!

Keep Those Summer Blooms Coming! by Carol King and Donna Duffy

Late June and early July are rewarding times in the garden. The results of all the hard labor in the spring are beginning to be evident: a variety of blooms make their first appearance. Those beautiful blooming plants will need some attention to keep the blooms coming back. Most perennials and annuals will benefit from deadheading, pinching, cutting back, and disbudding. It’s not as traumatic as it sounds, and you’ll be rewarded with a longer blooming season.

Deadheading: Deadheading is the practice of removing faded flowers. By removing spent flowers you keep the plant from setting seed and thus promote flowering. Not all plants need to be deadheaded. Some annuals have flowers that fall off cleanly by themselves. Other blooming plants such as daisy, black-eyed susan, daylily, marigolds, geraniums, zinnias, roses, and yarrow respond well to deadheading. Be sure to use a clean, sharp pruning tool. Don't deadhead if you wish to dry flowers, save seed, or want to save seed pods for drying. Toward the end of the blooming season, leave some seed heads intact for winter interest in your garden.

Pinching:

Pinching is done to promote bushiness and, consequently, more flowering. For most plants, all you need is your fingernails. You may give annuals a pinch at planting, and then pinch again later in the season to rejuvenate and encourage new growth. Perennials are pinched or pruned for the same reasons.  Some flowers that benefit from pinching include: asters, ageratum, browallia, calendula, coleus, verbena, zinnias and petunias. Timing is important: be sure to pinch your fall blooming perennials (like mums) before they start blooming. Pinch too late and you’ll find yourself bloomless and baffled in the fall.  

Cutting back: Cutting back certain plants after they flower will cause them to bloom one more time later in the season. Cut the flower all the way to the leaf on lady’s mantle, catmint, sages, salvia and sea hollies. This will feel more drastic than deadheading or pinching because you’re removing more of the plant. Be brave – it will be worth it.

Disbudding: The act of cutting off a perfectly good bud may seem a bit crazy, but doing so creates larger blooms from the remaining buds. Want a show stopping dahlia or a prize winning rose? Disbudding is the key. On dahlias, remove the two side buds next to the central bud at the end of each lateral branch. The flower that develops will be larger and will grow a longer and stronger stem. On hybrid tea roses, remove the secondary buds by the main bud; on floribundas and grandifloras, remove the middle (terminal) bud.